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Green Sheets II

Part Number 799600829943
Green Sheets II
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Tropical Green Sheets II
A Comprehensive Guide for People with Tropical Bonsai
  • All New Trees Featuring Imports from Puerto Rico, Florida Natives and Urban Yamadori!
  • All New Appendices Including Many "How To's" to Help Save You Money!
  • All New "Tips and Tidbits" Learned Along the Way Including Tips from Suthin Sukosolovisit, Boon Manakitivipart and Pedro Morales!
  • A New Tropical Tree Gallery Featuring a Few Bonsai Clubs and Study Groups, A New Florida Artist, New Award Winning Trees, and a New Gallery Featuring Outstanding Specimen Trees!
  • A Glossary of Common and Botanical Tree Names from Both Tropical Green Sheets I and Tropical Green Sheets II.

Featured on the cover of book II, is a specimen Randia aculeate Tintillo,
Styled and Owned by Christian Casella of Florida.


Most Care Sheets are at least 2 or 3 pages long and cover the following topics: Botanical Name, Common Name, Family, Zone, Origin, History, Species, Flower/Fruit, Repot Time, Soil Preference, pH, Fertilizer, Pruning, Training, Insect/Diseases, Propagation, Watering, Light, Seasonal Needs, Salt Tolerance, Suggested Styles, and any special Notes.
Sample Care Sheet
Botanical: Callicarpa americana
Family: Verbenaceae
Zone: 6a-10b?depending on the species
Origin: American beautyberry is a native plant.
The Beautyberry is considered an herb and a shrub. It is dispersed by birds who eat the fruit. It is not the first choice of food for bird as it is highly astringent, but they are eaten when other sources are scarce. In the sub-tropics and tropics the plant is evergreen but deciduous elsewhere. The large leaves are simple, opposite, and slightly toothed. It is a food source for butterfly larvae, especially the Lepidoptera. The berries can be used to make wine and jelly. Other parts of the plant are slightly toxic. I recommend throwing any trimming in the trash.

Callicarpa americana, American Beautyberry, is the only species suitable for
the tropics. It is easy to collect in forested areas and remains evergreen all year. It can grow to 6' in the wild.

Callicarpa bodinieri, Bodinier's Beautyberry, is native to China and is more
suitable for colder climates. It is used extensively in northwest Europe. It can grow to 9'.

The Appendices includes articles written on the following topics: Revisions and Additions to TROPICAL GREEN SHEETS I; Pinch, Pinch, Pinch; What about "Defoliation?"; WIRE IT IN!; MAINTAINING HEALTHY TREES; ?ACCENTS, COMPLEMENTARY, COMPANION?; CRITIQUING YOUR TREES; EXHIBITING: Getting Ready; Using Sphagnum Moss; DANGER! Grab Your Buttonwood and Run!; Let's Talk Small; Hon Non Bo; Fertilizing; A Review of Soil pH; DO IT YOURSELF: "Soil My Way or Not"; DO IT YOURSELF: "Soil Wash Screen"; DO IT YOURSELF: Soil Sifters; DO IT YOURSELF: Making Your Own Potting Tray; Quick Reference Repotting Schedule; Index by Botanical Name; Personal Tree Information Sheet; Green Sheet.
Sample Article from the Appendices


THE PROCESS "Pinch, Pinch, Pinch"

I have often been asked how I get my leaves so small on my Buttonwoods and my Ficus. I wish I could say it is simple but it is a dedicated Process. It is "dedicated" because once begun, you must be diligent. If the Process is neglected, the plant will revert to a larger leaf size. It is a Process, because it requires a step by step practice. For most tropicals, the process is the same.

The Process:

Develop secondary and tertiary branches first. Forget about leaf reduction and style and develop the base tree. Develop the primary branches working in the taper that is necessary. Develop your secondary branches along each primary by alternating their placement. At this point you will probably have branches that resemble "fish bones". This is important for true branch development but not aesthetically pleasing for finished trees. This is where the tertiary branches come in. along each secondary branch, encourage smaller twigs to develop. The oldest and best method for this development is to allow each new twig to grow out to 6-8 leaves and cut back to 2 leaves. Continue this method with each new twig and you will quickly develop plenty of branches to choose from. You will also notice the leaf size reducing naturally with each new twig. Along the top of the primary branch encourage small twigs to develop. These give the upward growth that till create pads.
Tertiary branches are one of the key elements in leaf reduction. The more twigs, the more the nutrition, "energy", of the plant is divided over the entire tree. This energy division will create smaller leaves that require less nutrition in order to spread the wealth.
2. Along with the steps in #1, I also cut all leaves in half. This reduces the nutrition requirement of each leaf because I have reduced the surface to cover. This often causes back-budding and increases twigging. I continue this process throughout the entire time I am working with step #1. Since I do not show trees that have not developed past #1, I do not worry about the appearance of the cut leaves.
3. Once I have moved past #2 with an abundance of twigs and leaves many of which are a small size, I then move to pinching. I first learned this from Dr. Herbert Granger and have had it reinforced every time I see Suthin Sukosolovisit. I think Suthin's mantra is "pinch, pinch, pinch". If any of you have been privileged to see his trees with their leaf size you understand what I mean.

The pinching Process is easy but again requires dedication. Each week, I move through my collection and pinch, pinch, pinch. With each plant, I remove the largest leaves. This is not defoliation. I only remove a few each week from all over the tree. The tree never suffers the stress of defoliation so maintains its vigor. This Process literally never ends. Even if you finish your tree with tiny leaves in a season, it will begin again the next season. It does, however, become easier.

A specimen Australian Pine Casuarina equisetifolia owned and styled by Ed Trout of Florida.